The climbing-walls of Ibiza

Some of the climbing possibilities at one glance

Here you can find out more about the most important climbing walls of Ibiza. In my guidebook I will inform you about any new routes we have set up. But of course there are also new, very hidden or secret climbing routes, which are very difficult to find, so the completeness is not guaranteed. All new routes which are drilled by us are usually equipped with stainless steel adhesive or drilled bolts. Some older routes require urgent renovation, however, often lack the necessary finances and support of the authorities. In the Internet one stumbles over the ancient climbing area "el soto". Forget it!!! The bolts fall from the wall by themselves.
A detailed route to the climbing areas of Ibiza will not be found here on these pages.

However, my newly published climbing guide in English “IBIZA-Rockclimbing” can be purchased now as an eBook online or as a printed version in bookshops.

Naxamena

PARED DE BUDA
Is the most famous and largest climbing area. On the weekends you can meet international climbers. Most of them are climbing in the first 4 sectors, and as a result some of the routes are getting polished by the end of the summer.
Until 2005 there were 6 sectors.
In 2004 the most frequently climbed routes were renovated and equipped with stainless bolts.
In 2006 the sector Anfiteatro and the sector Es Vedra were added.
New routes are being opened here constantly, and as in some sectors they are crossing each other finding your way can become sometimes a bit confusing.

PUNTA AUBARCA
It takes about 40 min. to walk through beautiful forest landscape to get to the remote place called Torre de LLuc. You can see the climbing wall only once you are already standing over it. There are 21 routes with a length between 25-45 meters which range from 5a to 7b. You get to the wall by walking about 100 meters along the edge. There is a small path down there.
These climbing routes were renovated in 2008 with stainless bolts.
Since 2011 there are 2 new sectors.

EGAGROPILAS
It is situated above the small bay of Portixol (but can not be reached from there) and is a good climbing area in wintertime, because it is well protected from winds and until 2 pm in the sunshine. There are about 40 routes, spread over 4 sectors. The routes have an average height of 13 meters and their difficulties range from 4 to 7b. The bolts are not all in good condition. In 2012 we started to renovate some of the routes up to 6b. And some new routes have been added.

LA CUEVA
Also located above Portixol and below Egagropilas. Always shady and cave-like, it provides protection during light showers of rain. Here you will find about 14 routes ranging from 6a to 8b and an average height of 20 meters.

"The Silence is speaking"   VIDEO

02.2014 opened by us in Cap Rubio (Raco de fosc). It is 9 pitches long, goes over 220m and is graded 6a. In parts self-protection is necessary! It starts at sea-level and you can also reach it by boat.

 

JOLIBUT
Jolibut consists of two consecutive climbing walls. There are about 25 routes between 10 and 15 meters high, which range from 6a to 8b. Some of the most difficult routes of the island are found here. Strangers disgraced some routes by gluing in some artificial holds. You can here also climb during light rain showers, as the wall is completely overhanging.
Caution: some bolts are already corroded.

CALA AUBARCA
Sector "Inalambricos": 13 routes up to 30 meters high range between 7a and 8b. It is a pure summer climbing area, because in winter due to humidity the access is too dangerous. As access is dangerous we took it out of our guidebook.
Sector "Paquidermico": 4 routes up to 25 meters high range between 7b+ and 8a+. To these routes one has to abseil in the middle of the bay, from above. There is no access from below. As access is dangerous we took it out of our guidebook.
Sector "El Arco": Here, directly on the water, some adhesive bolts have been placed at various points for top-rope climbing.
Since 2011 there is also the new sector "Los Viones".

Stairway to Heaven

"Stairway to Heaven"   1.VIDEO  2.VIDEO

Opened by us in 2012 it offers fantastic multi-pitch-climbing. Including the access route "Dolomiti" it goes over 9 pitches and is 240 meters long.

Sol
Sol/Sombra abajo
Egagropilas
Egagropilas
Buda
Buda

CAP CREU
One of my favorites here in Ibiza. All the routes have been drilled by Pipeta and me. The routes already have a somewhat alpine character with the Mediterranean Sea at their feet. The wall can be reached by water or by abseiling. Caution - with a 60 meter rope you can only rappel along the routes "Schmiedellino" and "Cielo y Infierno", with the others you need a 100 meter rope.
There are 5 routes - 140 meters with one variant. Two routes, 5b/6b, with 5 pitches, the others, 7b, with 3 long pitches.
In 2012 we added "Confianza y tecnica" 6c +, 140m.

NA XAMENA
In the summer an oven, in winter awesome. During 2006/7 we opened the wall. Today there are 4 routes á 140 meters, ranging from 7a+ to 6b, and 2 routes á 15m, 7a. The routes are very exposed and can be reached via a path to the wall-base or by abseiling. Caution in abseiling, as one pitch of the route Pachamama has 33 meters! There is a new route 6b without protection, only the belays are bolted. Since 2012 there is the complete new sector Cala NaXamena with 8 sportclimbing routes ranging from 4 to 6b.

PENYAL DE S`AGUILA
Sector Sol and sector Sombra
This is our house wall. In about 15 min. walk to reach. Here I opened 15 new routes in 2006/7. Now there are 41 routes ranging from 4 to 7b and a height up to 28 meters.

PENYAL DE S`AGUILA
Sector Faders.
Ideal climbing area for the summer months because during this time the sun shines in only after 3pm. Since it is directly by the sea, there is nothing to stop you having a bath during a climbing pause. As the cliff is slightly inclined it is slab-climbing up to 120m. In 2005 we started here bolting new routes with stainless steel. There are now 26 routes between 10 and 120 meters high. The difficulty ranges from 5a to 8a. The area is also good for bouldering.

"Sum"   YOUTUBE VIDEO

PUNTA DE S`AGUILA
6 sectors with 36 routes make this a very interesting climbing area. There is something for everybody.

 

ACCOMMODATION
As most of the climbing areas are located around San Miguel on the northwest coast of Ibiza, you can save yourself a lot of driving time if you stay close by.


 

Climbing guide IBIZA
As most climbing areas are difficult to find without help you can now buy our newly updated climbing guide in bookshops and online.  Accurate access information by foot and by car as well as information on family friendliness, location of the sectors and routes will give you an accurate overview and will help you to choose the area and to find your way. This climbing guide brings light into the slightly hidden climbing areas of Ibiza.

Here you can find the current climbing guide


 

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